Not really suitable for a K-frame with a larger barrel, but definitely an option for snub-nosed revolvers. This is probably the most common form of concealed carry. Inside-the-waistband holsters are worn inside the waistline of pants and close to the body. This type of holster arguably provides the fastest draw. A lot of belt holsters are worn on the hip on either the weak or the strong side.
Typically, these are the most common kind of holster for a K-frame revolver with a longer barrel. Here are some of the more common ones: Belt HolsterĪlso known as an OWB ( outside-the-waistband) holster. There are a variety of different kinds of holster. Weak side : The side of your body furthest from your shooting hand (also called the support side). Thumb Break: A strap that retains the weapon, usually released with a snap or button. Strong Side : The side of your body closest to your shooting hand. SOB : This designates a holster than can be place at the small of the back, at the-center (or just off-center) of the back. Ride : How high or low a holster sits on the belt. Retention Screw : This is a built-in screw that adjusts how tightly a holster holds a gun. Pancake Holster : A holster made of two pieces of material sown together. Open Top : This is a holster without any retention strap to hold the gun in place. Designated by hours of the clock – 12 o’clock being the bellybutton.Ĭrossdraw : When you use your strong hand to draw from the weak side of your body. Here’s a brief guide to some of the more common words you’ll encounter in this review and elsewhere:Īppendix Carry : This is a carry position at the front of the body at about 1 or 2 o’clock.Ĭant : The angle at which a gun is held upright in a holster.Ĭarry Position : The position you place your gun on your body. If you’re new to carrying, you might find yourself getting lost listening to all the terminology floating around. This will depend largely on the materials it is made from, but the manufacturing quality and how well you take care of your holster are also important. Time and again, I’ve bought a holster, lulled by some aspect of its design, only to discover I can’t use it without experiencing intolerable pain.ģ) The best holsters last for years. Are you a huntsman or a competition shooter? Or do you just want a good holster for the daily slog?Įither way, a decent holster should usually cover these three points at the very least:ġ) It should have some form of retention – a good test of that is to tip your holster upside down and see if it holds on to your gun.Ģ) It should also be comfortable enough to wear. It’s worth considering what you will be using it for. Picking out the right holster for your K-frame can be tricky. Simply because they are the most common, this review will focus on K-frame revolvers with a 4-inch barrel. They’re also available with a longer 6-inch barrel, and with a 3-inch, 2.5-inch, or a 2-inch snub-nosed barrel. The most common barrel length, and the one you were most likely to see police using, is a 4-inch barrel. Smith & Wesson have produced a bunch of different K-frame models over the years. If you’re interested in reading more about the K-frame, this article is well worth checking out.
Smith and wesson model 10 5 review series#
Semi-automatics may be all the rage now, but wheel guns like the K-frame series were a firm and reliable favorite among law enforcement officers throughout the 20th century, and they are still being made today. To get a feel for the popularity of this class of firearm, the classic S&W Model 10 – which is built on the K-frame – is the largest-selling revolver in history ever since it was first manufactured in 1899. The letter “K” is Smith & Wesson’s designation for their medium-sized revolver frames.